The two-tone gold ring set with a 9,36 carats fancy yellow diamond in a brilliant rectangular shape (see Gazette 2024, no. 46, page 90) was a minor disappointment, as it did not find a buyer. The honour was saved, however, thanks to this sumptuous and elegant half-set by Van Cleef & Arpels, which opened at 113000€. Featuring oval and concentric shapes, it consists of a pair of earrings and a long necklace that can be transformed into three separate bracelets or a smaller necklace that can accommodate a pendant via a concealed ring.
Van Cleef & Arpels, important half-set comprising a pair of openwork oval-shaped earrings articulated in two detachable parts, set with approximately 10,5 carats of extra-clear diamonds, monogrammed, numbered and hallmarked by the Vassort maker, and a long necklace in three divisible parts, formed of a succession of oval links set with extra-white brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 40,5 carats, monogrammed, numbered and marked by Vassort.
Sold for : 113000€
Reproduced in the Van Cleef & Arpels book by Sylvie Raulet (1991, published by Du Regard), the half-set was acquired by its first owner in 1976 from the Monegasque branch of the jeweller. But its main interest lies in the maker's mark on its components : that of André Vassort. Little is known about this jeweller, who set up his workshop at 34 rue Sainte-Anne in Paris in 1955. The Vassort workshop quickly established itself as one of the most recognised and sought-after manufacturers of high-quality French jewellery in the mid-twentieth century. Not surprisingly, the great houses of Place Vendôme called on it to create their jewellery or to fulfil special orders for their prestigious clients, Hollywood stars and royalty.
One of the most spectacular creations from this behind-the-scenes workshop is the famous crown of emeralds, rubies, pearls and diamonds designed for Van Cleef & Arpels to mark the coronation of the Empress of Iran, Farah Pahlavi. Vassort specialised in goldwork and transformation jewellery. The workshop finally closed its doors in the early 1990s, but not before establishing itself as a key player in jewellery production in the last century.
Other fine results include the 50675€ achieved by a platinum ring featuring an impressive cushion-shaped Ceylon sapphire weighing 10,95 carats.
Cannes, december tuesday 31. Besch Cannes Auctions OVV M. DE GARO.
La Gazette Drouot N° 2 of January 17, 2025 page 97