Press article : Arnold Ostertag, a forgotten designer - Nice Matin

Arnold Ostertag (1883-1940)
Chased silver box

Lovers of fine jewellery and signed pieces are invited to the next sale by Jean-Pierre Besch. For this summer's auction at the Hôtel Martinez, the Cannes-based auctioneer and his firm are presenting an eclectic array of precious pieces, with nearly 370 lots in all. One original piece is sure to attract the attention of lovers of fine Art Deco objects : a chased silver box with geometric lines, signed by the jeweller Arnold Ostertag (1883-1940). Estimated at just 600 to 1200€, this small two-compartment box, embellished with yellow gold and sapphires, dates from 1930 and was formerly used as a cigarette case. A similar model is currently on display at the British Museum. Although his name remains unknown to the general public, Ostertag's jewellery contributions in the 1920s and 1930s were significant. Born in Lucerne, he was 39 when he moved to Paris in 1922 to begin his career as a jeweller on Place Vendôme. Other Ostertag boutiques followed over the years, in Cannes, Le Touquet and New York. His jewellery was soon sought after by high society, and his clientele included empresses, dukes and celebrities, seduced by his sumptuous creations in gold and platinum, inspired by his travels and set with sparkling diamonds and vibrant precious stones. The young designer has a predilection for cigarette cases and compacts, intelligent make-up kits that became veritable works of art in his hands. Arnold Ostertag died in April 1940. His Paris shop did not survive the Nazi occupation and closed the following year.

Arnold Ostertag (1883-1940) - Chased silver box set with yellow gold and sapphires, the top holding a mirror, circa 1930

14,7 x 11,8 x 1,5 cm

Estimate : 600 - 1200€

Cartier is also featured in the sale catalogue, with a remarkable collection from an old family in Nice, including a pair of Art Deco clips in platinum, gold and diamonds, styling a 5-petal flower and estimated at between 30000 and 50000€. Those nostalgic for the unforgettable "Angélique, marquise des anges" will be tempted by an elegant yellow gold and white enamel minaudière belonging to the actress Michèle Mercier (1939), estimated at 10000-15000€. There is also an exceptional platinum ring holding a large 18,52 carats rectangular emerald set with 24 diamonds. This French work could fetch between 140000 and 180000.

NICE MATIN of August 04, 2024 - Page Art & Enchères - Laurence Guidicelli